An European capital where to experience the authentic magic of Advent time is undoubtedly Vienna. Here, Christmas markets have been a regular event for years, indeed centuries.
In fact, as early as 1298 Albert I of Habsburg allowed the inhabitants to have a market in December, the “Krippenmarkt.” Since then the tradition has been kept alive more than ever, evolving along with society’s new customs and traditions.
Visiting Vienna during the Christmas season means immersing yourself in a festive atmosphere, with illuminations lighting up the city nights.
Guide to Vienna’s Christmas markets
At the time of organizing my trip to the Austrian capital city, what called my attention was to discover that several Christmas markets are set up in Vienna.
Both in the city center and in the surrounding neighborhoods, including Schönbrunn Palace, starting in mid-November the squares and main streets are occupied by typical wooden houses where food, drinks, gifts and handicrafts are sold.
How many days are needed and what are the opening hours?
Having two or three days allows you to see several Christmas markets while visiting many attractions and museums across Vienna.
In my case, I arrived in the city on Wednesday afternoon and left on Saturday morning.
Opening times vary by location but generally speaking markets open around 10 a.m. and close between 9- 10 p.m. Some, especially those located outside the city center, remain closed some weekdays.
The times with less crowds, and therefore best suited for quieter Christmas shopping, are mornings and early afternoon. After that, as evening falls markets gradually become more crowded.
The common feature of Vienna’s markets is that there is a lot of eating and drinking. Just to give you an idea: roasted chestnuts, various cookies and sweets, hot dogs, local street food, beer, wine, punch…
This article is based on the trip made between late November and early December 2023. From year to year there may be some changes, so I suggest taking a look at the website of the Vienna Tourist Board, from which I took inspiration for organizing my itinerary.
Christmas market at the foot of the Vienna Giant Ferris Wheel
Firstly I decided to head straight for the Prater Ferris Wheel, the quintessential symbol of the Austrian capital.
I got on it right at sunset time and, fortunately, buying tickets from home saved me valuable time by being able to skip the line at the ticket office. The 360-degree view of Vienna is marvelous, making it one of the must-see vantage points.
The Christmas market is located in the square that separates the Giant Ferris Wheel and the Madame Tussauds Museum. In addition to food and souvenirs, the area hosts a stage for concerts held Friday through Sunday and the children’s merry-go-round.
Unlike the others, the Prater markets are open until January 6th.
If you are looking for a traditional local place where to eat out, I suggest Gasthaus Hansy, located within walking distance of the Praterstern subway station. For more details have a look at this article.
Christmas Village in the Stephansplatz
After dinner I returned to the heart of Vienna to enjoy it by night.
A must-see is St. Stephen’s Cathedral Square, where there are about 40 stalls where you can buy handmade Austrian products (as well as food and hot drinks).
Some of the city’s most beautiful Christmas lights can be seen while walking along the Graben.
This is the famous shopping street that also houses several cafes and restaurants and is dominated in the center by the baroque Plague Column (1683-1693).
Wiener Christkindlmarkt in the Rathausplatz
The Vienna Christmas market that I enjoyed the most is the one located in the Rathausplatz, in front of the imposing neo-Gothic building dating back to the second half of the 19th century.
I have been there in early afternoon and then in the evening, which is the time when the festive atmosphere reaches its peak thanks to the lights and decorations that adorn the square and the gardens around it.
In addition to the little wooden houses where numerous gifts, local products, street food and the inevitable punches are purchased, visitors have access to an ice skating rink, a merry-go-round for the little ones, the reindeer train and a thematic trail inspired by the nativity scene.
This is the busiest market but also the one that offers the most attractions for families.
Maria-Theresien-Platz Christmas Village
A ten-minute walk from the Rathausplatz takes you to another of Vienna’s most famous squares that during Advent hosts roughly 70 market stands.
Here, the search for Christmas gifts goes hand in hand with culture as Maria-Theresien-Platz connects two museums: the Art History Museum and the Natural History Museum, respectively Kunsthistorisches Museum and Naturhistorisches Museum in German.
Winter season at the MQ
Cross the street from Maria-Theresien-Platz to reach Vienna’s MuseumsQuartier, one of the largest cultural areas in the world since on a single square there are the:
- Leopold Museum, with its collection of hundreds of works of modern Austrian art;
- mumok, the museum of modern art with masterpieces from the 20th and 21st centuries;
- Kunsthalle, where works of modern and contemporary art from around the world are on display;
- Az W-Architekturzentrum Wien, the only museum of architecture in Austria.
In addition, during the winter season the inner courtyard is transformed into a scenic Christmas setting by light projections resulting from art installations that address different themes each year, while decorations and illuminations grace the Biergarten of the restaurants. Background music is then provided by DJs with their Winter Sounds.
Am Hof Christmas Market
In the heart of Vienna’s historic center and a few hundred meters from St. Stephen’s Cathedral you can find Am Hof, a public square surrounded by a series of historic buildings and a 14th-century church.
Traditional wooden stands are arranged around the Mariensäule, erected in 1667 in honor of the Virgin. If you want to have lunch or dinner within walking distance of Am Hof I suggest the Brezl Gwölb inn, located in a quiet alley north of the square.
Art Advent in Karlsplatz
I ended my three days in Vienna by visiting the Christmas market situated in the Karlsplatz, just off the Ringstraße.
Dominated by the impressive baroque Karlskirche (1716-1723), the square comes alive at Advent time with small shops selling handicrafts and organic food.
There is no shortage of entertainment for children as well as live music.
The top activities to do in Vienna
BeIow you find the list of some of the most popular attractions and activities not to be missed in Vienna, also during winter time:
- Upper Belvedere and Klimt’s Permanent Collection, including the famous masterpiece “The Kiss” with priority admission guaranteed by choosing the desired time slot;
- Ride on the Prater Giant Ferris wheel, with skip-the-line entrance;
- Vivaldi’s “The Four Seasons” concert in the Karlskirche;
- All-Inclusive ticket for St. Stephen’s Cathedral, with full visit and access to catacombs, museum, north and south towers and audioguide included;
- CAT train transfer, the fastest way to reach the center of Vienna from the airport in just 16 minutes;
- Panoramic view from the Danube Tower, offering the best sight of Vienna;
- Entrance ticket to the Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Art History);
- Albertina Museum, permanent collection of modern art with works by Monet, Picasso, Degas, Renoir and Chagall;
- Mozarthaus, with audioguide included;
- Vienna City Card (24, 48 or 72 hours), free public transport and discounted tickets to museums and attractions;
- Vienna Pass (1, 2, 3 or 6 days), free admission to all attractions and unlimited travels on Hop-on Hop-off tourist buses.
